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Air Leaks/Exchange And Energy Loss
Posted on Nov 26, 2007 - 07:07 PM
By: Adam Beazley
When a home is not properly sealed it will experience air leaks (air exchange) which generally causes heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. Air exchange is responsible for anywhere from 20% to 50% of your homes’ heating and cooling cost. This air leakage happens because of a pressure difference between he inside and outside of a home.
Air naturally flows from positive to negative pressure conditions. In the winter the temperature is colder outside and when the pressure outside is higher than the inside of the house, cold air will leak into the lower levels of the house. The opposite happens in the summer as the warmer outside air is forced into the house because of the higher outside pressure. This pressure difference is caused by a variety of different things like wind, temperature and internal appliances. Even though there is very little you can do to balance internal and external pressure levels, you can seal your homes’ leaks and stop the majority of this air exchange.
Save Money & The environment --> Seal Those Leaks
By sealing all air leaks in your home you can cut your heating and cooling bills by up to 20%. The cost and time associated with an air leak sealing project is very small and most people will make that money back in savings in as little at 2 to 3 months.
After completing a home pressurization test as outlined on the previous page and identifying all of the air leaks in your home, it is time to figure out how to seal each particular leak situation. Each leak situation may require a different solution for optimal results.
: : Door Leaks : :
Door leaks are one of the largest contributors to air exchange is they are not properly sealed. An exterior door with a 1/8” gap between the door and the threshold is equivalent to a two square inch hole in your wall. By simply eliminating these gaps with door sweeps and weather stripping, you can potentially cut your your heating and cooling cost by 15%.
Door Sealing Instructions:
Materials:
Door Sweep
Self Adhesive Foam Weather stripping
or
V-channel
To seal the sides and the top of a door you can either use V-strip or a self adhesive foam weather striping. If you are using V-channel, you will apply it to the door jamb and door head with the “V” opening pointing in the same direction as the door closes. This way the “V” will compress when the door closes without getting stuck.
If you choose to use the self adhesive foam, you will need to apply it to the stop molding of the door jamb and the door head where it touches the outside edges of the door.
A door sweep installation will require a little bit of cutting, but nothing to be afraid of. Cut the metal door sweep to the exact width of your door by using a hack saw or tin snips. With the door closed, attach the door sweep to the door with the screws provided making sure that the the flexible rubber sweep is touching the floor or threshold.
: : Window Leaks : :
There are many different types of windows however, the majority fall into two categories, casement or hung windows and each type will need to be sealed differently.
Hung Window Sealing Instructions:
Materials:
Self Adhesive Foam Weather stripping
V-channel
Apply a strip of self adhesive foam weather stripping to the bottom of the bottom sash being careful to cut it the same width of the window. If you have double hung windows apply an additional strip of adhesive foam to the top of the upper sash.
Next cut two pieces of V-channel for each sash that measure one inch longer than the sash. Now remove the backing and wedge the V-channel into the gap between the sash and the jamb, with the adhesive side facing the jamb. Use the sash to press the V-channel firmly against the Jamb to ensure proper adhesion. You can now drive a finish nails into the adhesive side of V-channel at the top (when closed) and at the bottom (when open). Repeat this step for the top sash and be sure to nail the top and bottom of the V-channel is this is a double hung window.
To seal the center gap between the two sashes when the window is closed, you will use another piece of V-channel adhering it to the back side of the bottom sash even with the top. It is important that the open end of the “V” is facing up, as this will ensure proper compression of the V-channel and proper operation of the window.
Casement Windows Sealing Instructions:
Materials:
Self Adhesive Foam Weather stripping
Sealing casement windows is very easy and very cheap. Simply apply adhesive foam on the inside face of the stop molding on the jamb and the head of each window. This way, When the window is closed it will press the foam and create a tight seal and stop air flow.
: : Electrical Outlet Leaks : :
Materials:
Foam Gaskets for Light Switches
Foam Gaskets for Electrical Outlets
Electrical outlets and light switches are also responsible for quite a bit of air leakage. The easiest and most effective way to stop these leaks is to purchase some specially made foam gasket inserts tailored for electrical outlets and light switches.
You can find these at Black Energy along with hundreds of other energy saving supplies. To install these gaskets, you simply unscrew the face plates of the electrical outlets and switches, insert the gasket and replace the face plate.
: : Ceiling Penetration Leaks : :
Most homes have unconditioned attic spaces which will typically be closer to the temperature outside than the temperature inside. Therefore any gaps between the conditioned living spaces and unconditioned attic spaces will result in air exchange and cause your home to be less efficient. Most ceiling gaps and leaks are easier to take care of from the attic as you do not have to be a clean with your sealing methods. However the first and most significant ceiling penetrations you will need to handle are any attic access doors.
Attic Access Door Leaks:
Attic access doors in general, are responsible for more energy loss than any other ceiling penetrations. In order to properly seal an attic access door, you must seal the door where it closes as well as seal around the perimeter of the frame.
Materials:
Self Adhesive Foam Weather stripping
Caulk Gun
Acrylic Latex Caulk
Sealing the gaps where the attic door and ceiling frame meet, is not a hard job, however each case is different due to the many different types of ceiling access situations. If you own a home with a drop down, spring loaded ladder, then you will simply apply the adhesive foam weather stripping to the perimeter of the door, so that the foam is compressed when the door is closed.
If you have fire access type panels which are basically wood panels that you drop down on top of the frame, then simply run a strip of adhesive foam around the stop molding of the frame. You can also install a hook-and-eye latch to pull the wood panel snug against the adhesive foam weather stripping
Seal the frame exterior by using Acrylic Caulk and the gun to push caulk into the corners where the frame meets the ceiling. When running a bead of caulk, do not pull the bead, instead hold the gun at a 45 degree angle and push towards the bead as this will force caulk into the cracks.
Other Ceiling Penetrations:
Materials:
Pressurized Expanding Foam
Caulk Gun
Acrylic Latex Caulk
Plumbing risers and pipes:
Every home will have at least a couple of plumbing risers piercing the ceiling. Generally these risers will be fed through a square hole cut by the carpenters. If these holes are not filled then you have great place where air can freely escape thereby increasing energy loss. To fill these gaps you can use some pressurized expanding foam, a popular brand is “Great Stuff”. Just spray a little in the gap and let it rise and stick, just keep in mind that it will almost triple in size, so do not overdo it.
Lights and Electrical Boxes:
Light boxes and electrical boxes require a little more care than just spraying a bunch of expanding foam all over it. Unfortunately expanding foam is flammable during dispensing, so we do not recommend that you use it on any electrical or lighting boxes. You can use the foam to fill holes where electrical wires are fed down into the wall cavities, just not on or around electrical and light boxes. Instead, simply use your Acrylic caulk and seal up any lighting and electrical boxes from inside your attic. Apply the caulk to the base where the electrical box and lights penetrate the ceiling as well as over any holes and slots on the actual boxes themselves.
Fireplace Flues & Chimneys:
Just like plumbing risers, fireplace flues and chimneys will generally be fed through a square hole. Unlike plumbing risers, flues and chimneys are much larger therefore making the gaps that surround them much larger and able to exchange much more air. Therefore, if it essential that these gaps be closed, and closed properly to prevent fires.
Materials:
Caulk Gun
Acrylic Latex Caulk
Aluminum Sheet
High Temperature Silicone Caulk
To begin, remove all insulation near the flue to create a clean working area. Now cut a half circle carefully matching the radius of the existing chimney/flue, on two separate sheets of aluminum sheeting. These sheets will be used to cover the gaps and the two semi-circles will but up against the existing flue/chimney. Use latex acrylic caulk applied to the bottom surface to glue the two aluminum sheets in place. Finish up by using a high temperature silicone caulk (red color) to seal the aluminum flashing and the chimney/flue where they meet.
Next we need to fabricate an insulation damn so the insulation will not be able to touch the hot flue and catch on fire. This can be done by folding another piece of aluminum sheeting (about 12” to 18” tall) in a square, around the flue/chimney leaving at least a one inch gap between the two. You can use aluminum tape, silicone or staples to join the two ends of the aluminum sheet after wrapping the flue.
In order to attach the insulation damn to the ceiling flare out the bottom by cutting one inch slits in each corner allowing the metal to be folded out. At this point, the flare can be tapped, stapled or glued to the ceiling. Finish up by replacing the previously moved insulation and you are done.
: : Baseboard And Wall Penetration Leaks : :
Materials:
Caulk Gun
Acrylic Latex Caulk
Pressurized Expanding Foam
Except of plumbing penetrations, baseboards and wall penetrations are all handled the same way with acrylic caulk. Because plumbing penetrations are generally located in unseen areas, they can be filled with pressurized expanding foam relatively easy. Caulk will be used to fill all other wall penetration edges and baseboards, and since these areas will be seen frequently, they will require a little more patience and finesse.
Interior Caulking:
Contrary to popular belief, a proper caulking bead is not run by pulling the caulk gun away from the bead. Instead, the caulk gun should be held at a 45 degree angle off of the surface and pushed towards the bead. This way the caulk gets pushed into the cracks and the bottom edge of the caulk nipple actually created a smooth finished edge if the proper amount of caulk is released.
An interior caulking job will require that you caulk all edges of all wall penetrations. This includes doors, windows, baseboards, wall and window mounted AC units, vents and any other penetrations not listed. Once this is completed you will have achieved a sealed home which also brings up a small issue.
| Carbon Monoxide warning: During and/or after completion of a home sealing job, you are at risk of carbon monoxide poisoning and/or combustion. This is because the gases have no where to escape as they did before. Therefore, it is imperative that you buy and mount Carbon Monoxide detectors throughout the house to ensure the safety of you and your family. |
: : Exterior Caulking : :
Materials:
Caulk Gun
Acrylic Latex Caulk
Even though your home is sealed from the inside, it is a good idea to seal the exterior of you home as well. This will help reduce air, dirt and moisture entry into your home, resulting in lower energy cost. Caulk should be applied to the following areas:
- joints where two materials meet
- around door and window frames
- joints between eaves and gable molding
- joints between window sill and siding
- All inside corners
Should you come across a join larger than 1/8” you will need to use a backer rod to ensure proper adhesion and ply ability. Contrary to popular belief, more caulk is not always better, in fact in most cases its actually worse. If huge amounts of caulk are applied to gaps larger than 1/8” the majority of the caulk will adhere to the back material and when the caulk shrinks or walls settle the caulk will crack and break its seal. If a backer rod is placed in the gap before applying the caulk, the caulk will take on an hour glass shape in section and will not adhere to the backer rod. This shape allows the caulk to stretch and move with the walls as they settle and move.
Now that you have finished sealing up all of your air leaks, pat yourself on the back because you just increased your efficiency by 20% to 50%. That not only translate into money savings, but your carbon footprint has also been reduced by 6,500 lbs. to 16,000 lbs. per year.
::----------------------------------------------------------------------::
In the next section we will show you how to reduce those cost and emissions even more by tightening up one of your biggest energy wasters, your hot water heater.
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